ra in paris!
again this season, ra hosts an edition to menswear, using its paris location to explore different facets of renegades. outsiders. pioneers. these are the ones we feel a kinship with. an electrifying interaction and merge between art, fashion, music and performance, the ss12 exhibition offers a strong point of view, discovering the filter through which these artists see and interpret their world and pushing new talent. this experiential and playful approach is part of ra’s identity, operating a joyful crossover between creative disciplines.
this season, we’ll include 12 international contributors for you to discover. working
with clothes, accessories, photographs or instruments, these individuals share a common boldness, challenging their creative limits and searching for alternatives. their
narratives, passions and obsessions will unfold during the event. behold. be included in their narrative.
harald lunde helgesen
+ two surprise students selected from the show of la cambre in brussel and antwerp academy’s in fashion fashion department.
my childhood’s places speaks for me : the jumble in my father’s garage, my grand mother paintings and bibelots intermingling and the crowding of destroy objects , rickety, dusty into my grand parents attic. the slightest object was a precious find. during my childhood, i’m deep in this type of universe and this influence my work.
estelle skrodzki, 22, born in toulouse now resident in paris will take over ra’s basement space room with her » cabinet des curiosités » a mix of installation and craft work.
the frustration and desire are the driving force behind her approach. Between photograph and sculpture, her work takes shape as a picture-object, borrowing from real, broadening the field of what’s ‘possible’. everything can be own, in many ways. the picture-object has ambiant value, it makes decor. the representation becomes a game of rewriting. mixing of fiction and reality, the installation tells, reflects upon and questions the relationship between man and object.
she is doing a two master degrees in applied arts in dupérré dsaa and the other in ens cachan in the design section.
is mythology still in our society? apart from religions, how can we transpose today paganism societies from the antic world in our new way of living.
when you think about dionysies in greece, that phenomenon you could experiment in the first theater plays, would it be the same in a music show or a baseball match watched by thousand of people at the same time.
that is one of camille pajot’s goals, wondering if we can still find the same schemes.
he will do a continuation of his work that is now in new york mixed the work that is presented in ra in may and jun.
born and based in paris, romain’s work is about “fabrics, sewing, animals, accident, catastrophe, funny and strange, cute and freaky, dumb and cruel, fairy tales and anatomic books, etc.”
he studied culpture and mixed media in l’école nationale supérieure des beaux arts de paris, anne rochette studio. he will bring over his work, the wale named is « dans le ventre du monstre avec une ficelle » that he build in the biennale of arnhem in the ra’s ‘sugar house’ to paris.
» i am a mermaid »
a little surprise from our wild parisian boy from antwerp. made in thailand? home made in antwerp? when bubbles meets the feathers…. he will present close to the wale of the other before mentioned romain some mermaid crowns and crazy outfits of course. hope you have learned how to swim! parisian menswear designer romain brau tells us he was ‘born in the sea’, and found his way on land to begin ra with anna kushnerova, after studying at the antwerp academy. designing costumes to make people dream,
romain has developed an opulent portfolio of richly embellished pieces that reference baroque + tribal costumes with fur, feathers + crystals as his luxurious materials of choice. his collections can be found hanging in ra and shops in japan
and new york.
the iconic urban ape stands for a new personality, he is the chieftain of the inner constitution, proud and extroverted. standing strong on the ground with a mind flying up in the sky.
it is a view into a world where clothing is less ordinary.
the label butterfly soulfire exists since nearly a decade! their men’s collection for summer 2012 is affected by a very personal and intimate vibe. based on black and white tones, the pieces are about draping, structure and destruction.
it is a state of the art, serving the exceptional as there is enough irrelevant. there are vibrant loose fits as well as tight and sexy silhouettes showing lots of skin.
the two designers maria thomas and thoas lindner are self educated, which probably is the reason for their outstanding style and handwriting. within the last seasons they successfully entered some global key accounts like seven – nyc, it – hong kong,
pool – munich and ra13 – antwerp. furthermore around 50 retailers distribute the creations of the dynamic duo.
with the opening of their own store in berlin, one and a half years ago, they also built a platform for new up and coming designers.
iceland, cédric’s most prominent source of inspiration is meticulously translated in his garments. having graduated from the royal academy of fine arts in antwerp, he will be presenting his second collection in paris with ra again. he manages to capture the blatant beauty and the emotions of iceland’s constant duality into every single piece he makes. a duality of both the serenity and the power of icelandic nature and the threatening consequences of the ever-changing environment.
the inspiration for this collection depicted from a duality in nature.
the ocean – the womb of our earth – the origin of life, has the power to destroy crops, to dry out the land by leaving layers of salt after a tsunami. the volcano – the most destructive force – possesses the quality of making land fertile again, of bringing new life. this duality – between power and tranquility, between darkness and light, between life and death – forms the keywords for this collection.
in garment this is translated by the use of very fluid materials like loosely woven and transparent linens, super fine jersey and loose silk and cashmere knitwear. these fabrics have the quality to fall freely. draped, not by letting them fall naturally, but by forcing them slightly around the body, what gives them the feeling of this duality. we can expect not only to see the collection but a video to match too.
its a project created by the designers siv støldal, ida falck Øien and harald lunde helgesen, based respectively in norway, los
angeles and london.
their first project is titled aspirational clothing – to dress for success. for spring / summer 2012 they looked at how people dress to match their personal or professional aspirations and for social maneuverability. how do you dress for a job interview? how
do you dress for a first date? how do you dress to fit in, stand out, reach your goals? they have investigated some of the clothing codes attached to aspiration from our different environments in los angeles,
london and norway.
being located in different parts of the world, haik members communicate through an online studio. research uploaded by each
haik member is shared, discussed and built upon. they use quasi – anthropological and sociological methods. with their work based on firsthand experience, observations and interviews in their respective local environment, they share their research with each other to gain a wider perspective and context.
his collection is inspired by the idea of palimpsests – manuscripts which have had the original writing erased in order to make room for new text, but where the earlier content is still traceable underneath. this idea is re – contextualized as a cross section of his own wardrobe history. he considers that his own collection of clothes is my most important library of references and
inspiration. combined and layered are favorite garments, inherited pieces, vintage finds and jis own past collections; all which use amalgamations of different histories to create something constantly new. it carries with it inherent memories, meanings and purposes.
since graduating from the arts university college at bournemouth in 2009 harald lunde helgesen has kept on creating collections in his own name,showing twice during the international festival of photography and fashion in hyères, once in competition and the second time as a returning winner. alongside harald has been creating award winning fashion films and done freelance work for fashion and stage, including costumes for contemporary dance show “liquide” with la zouze, premiered in marseille summer 2010. in july 2011 harald is one of the finalists in the prestigious its competition in trieste, italy.
this california boy always bases my work around a guy that has a lot of swagger. so growing up, it was interesting to observe how different street cultures rocked their shit. in school he had friends that in one extreme were west coast gangster rap, and in the other he had friends that were skaters. for spring/summer 2012, which was also showcased during london fashion week in the central st. martin’s ma press show in february 2011, he was very interested in a 90′s surfer/grunge feel.
it’s a look that’s traditionally very casual, but I wanted to give it a more formal edge. he wanted shape to still remain minimal, and have fabrications and colors that pop. he also referenced mexican themes in this collection because of its close proximity to malibu, where he imagines the story of the collection takes place. surfing goes hand in hand with skating, so he also introduced some skating elements.
samson moved to los angeles where he successfully completed his first aa in fashion design. he continued further studies in manufacturing and product development under scholarship at fidm. samson’s passion then led him to pursue further design education at central st. martins, earning a ba and ma degree in fashion menswear. he maintained an industry presence and managed to work on four collections for jeremy scott throughout his degree.
shaun can also solve a rubik’s cube in under two minutes!
erika is a swedish photographer working in antwerp while she is finishing
her ba in photography at the royal academy. after her foundation photo studies in sweden, she moved to antwerp. alongside studies she is doing photo assistant work while focusing on her own personal work and collaborations with young designers and recent graduates as well as students from the fashion academy. erika
is currently working on her bachelor project “causing disturbance” from where selected photographs will be presented at the ra showroom.
the costume will be a reference of the movement of place and replacing pieces, as when you make a puzzle, a patient and controlled hobby. the performer is shaped by elise gettliffe, into a painted- from- within- thermoformed costume. all the costume . its to have 3 mechanisms, movement of the arms, concentration of the eyes, filling the emptiness. a big part of this performance is elise showing us her esthetic! throwing glass ball is something really immediate, a pulsion of destruction, a way to liberate some tension. its instinctive in a way. the costume will look totally controlled and in order.
elise will be bringing this costume from the first festival of independent artspaces during art basel - keck-kiosk. to be presented in paris during the ra mensweek exhibition accompanied by the video made in vienna of the performance!
graduating from the antwerp academy in 2008, elise headed to trieste for ITS#7 + ITS#8,
+ has been working in antwerp ever since.
fanzine – series n. 1
Pierre Clementi was arrested in rome for alleged use of drugs. at that time he was acting in bertolucci’s partner. it was in 1971 and he spent 17 months in prison while italy and france reached each other in their aesthetic and contradictions. after that it was no longer the same.
he returned to france by train, the one which runs along the Italian coastline. between genoa and nice, seafront consists of coves and cliffs.the track passes through many hills and at each exit of the tunnel, the sea rises dazzling. tunnel – a blue, then tunnel – a blue, then black – a blue, a black, then blue, like the film of a movie… a black, an image, a black, an image. but for pierre clementi it was already 17 months that life joined the fiction.
at that time the train used to stop at ventimiglia. we grew up on the inside, looking out at the sea, playing our lives in movie, like radiant children, despite of their selfish joy of those protected by fortress europe. every time we look out the window, an image appeared. hands, gestures, clouds of different colors, different colors, different lines and styles.
today the train can stop forever, but our bodies, always searching for a terminal “cliché”, do not stop moving anymore.
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